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My 2006 Fusion had 37, 000 miles on it (36, 000 was warranty) when it left me sitting. The battery terminal had corroded in half, the battery post was damaged, and a jumper wire was also corroded. I had been religious about having the car serviced (I was travelling for cancer treatments and needed something dependable) and had it in for a final once over and oil change at 35, 900 mi. The car was only 2 yrs. old ! There is no way that the terminal should have caused all of that damage ! Our dealership couldn't do anything since it was out of warranty, but they did say they would give us back a percentage of the cost - don't know what percent. It's cost me over $400 so far and the jumper wire is well over another $450. Ford won't do anything. There was a new Mercury in for the same thing when we had my car there. Too coincidental. I've written their customer complaint dept. for months - they just send back form letters saying there is nothing they can do. We have been a Ford family all of our lives - but no more.
OMG! I just had the same thing happen today with my 2004 Ford Expedition. Always serviced by Ford, on time or even before schedule. Took it in for the 60K check-up and got an initial $1, 223 quote, I had some other "elective" services completed. Battery replacement = $129 and battery cables = $460. Reason you ask? Because the battery started to fail (it was cranking just fine when I dropped it off) and when it fails it leaks acid through the posts. This caused the cable to fuse to the post.
I'm no rocket scientist, but I'm definitely a fisherman - this one stinks!
I have the exact same problem you described! Except it happened at 30, 000 miles in a Walmart parking lot. I went into Walmart and got a small battery cable + terminal and pliers for $12 and fixed it. I then took it into a dealership and they said it would cost $800 to replace the battery cable. I declined paying $800. After about 6 months that small cable isn't doing the job and is now having trouble starting and charging the battery. It is now at 40, 000 miles but I have a dealership warranty up to 60, 000 miles. I took it in and asked them to fix it under that warranty. They said that this fix was not covered under my extended warranty. I asked them to fix it under the bumper to bumper warranty because I had brought it in at 30, 000 miles, right after it happened and at the 35, 000 mile checkup. They said they would get back to me. They called back and said it is not covered because the car is over 36, 000 miles even though I had brought it in to fix it while it was under warranty. They could only offer me a discount total cost to fix $600. I declined again and I'm planning on calling the customer complaint dept.
See pictures of NEW Ford Fusion full or Rust/Corrosuin at www.faceford.com
Conclusion.
FORD MOTOR COMPANY SUCKS!
Same problem in fusion [protected] miles( all the services in the book at the correct miles and they do not avoid this problem whit a few bucks puting anticorrosion agent in the terminals that is what stinks in the dealers ) the good thing live near matamotos mexico and for 20 dls they fixed. they weld the cables to a brannew terminal and put anti corrosion in the terminal (autozone have it for under 5 bucks)
I had about the same thing happen to me as well.I, had a 2008 ford fussion that I bought in oct 07 when I bought this car it only had 3 miles on the odmenter.
I as well bought the ford extined warrnty for extra 75, 000 miles . On Aug., 19.2009 on a hot san antino, TX night about 9:30 pm I was coming out of a class on lackland AFB.I got in my car to start it and it made a bad sound that I found to be funny.When I tried to drive doiwn the road it wolud only go 20miles an hour so I called the warrnty hot line and they sent a tow truck to come pick me up but when they got their the car started up with no problem. Stuck me as quit odd so The tow guy said he would follow me home to make sure it didn't brake down on the high way . Once I got home I let the car cool off open the hood to find the postive cable very croted yet I had my car seviced every 3000 miles and tires rotated yet this problem was never found. So the next day I drove the car to the ford dealer ship and the air bag light was on the whole time after sitting for 2 hours I was told the cable was croted and battrey dead and computer parts for acculratrion where covered in carbon and I needed a new fuel fillter .So the guy hooded me up with a rental and told me to come back that monday morning and the car would be fixed .I get their to pick up the car and it was fixed then the guy tells me that my extined warrnty does cover the computer for the car and the next time this happends I'll be forking out close to 3000dollars. Even then with the warrnty they would get to determan weather it was lack of mantiance or worn out part if lack of mantiance. I would still pay for the parts and labor even with the extined warrnty. I said to my self never agin and traded the car in on a 09 nissan sentra never agin will I deal with ford. ### THE FROD ADVANTAGE! THEY CAN STICK IT! THE FROD ONLY HAD 23, 500 ON IT!
The battery in my Explorer failed at 41.000 miles. The guy from AAA pointed out the corrosuin on the battery cables. Before the battery failed my Serius radio was working just fine. The radio quit working when the battery failed because of a short in the part. The radio works and the satellite is being received from Serius, but the $500.00 part in the radio that allows the signal throgh is not working. This is a Ford problem not a Serius problem. The dealer tells me that this is considered an "uncommon repair" but there is nothing he can do about it. Back to GM products for me when the lease is up!
I just took my '06 FOrd Fusion in because the cover to the oil pan flew off (second time in 1 year). Got it fixed (luckily was still covered under the 1 year warranty of the original work) but the very next day the check engine light came on. It seems that every time I take it in for something another things breaks. The check engine light was my thermostat breaking and my fan had to be replaced. They also told me that the positive cable going to my cable was corroded. They said that they wouldn't even touch it unless I agreed to replace the cable because they said it was about to break. I am going to shope around but they quoted my $250 for the cable and another $120 for the battery. I have about 56, 000 miles on the car and have been very particular with the maintenance. It as if it happened overnight. I always used to take my car to the Ford dealership for oil changes until my oil pan flew off on the interstate. I started taking it to Wal-Mart and they were the ones that told me I had corrosion on my battery. I am just as perplexed as the rest of you.
I am currently having problems with a leaky battery, which came with the 2007 ford fusion, that I am still paying on. My car would not start up this morning. I had to call AAA to get my car to run. That's when I was told that I had a leaky battery. I use to own a 1997 old Chevy Caviler, I never had a problem with a leaky battery. Old glory, was good to me until I finally donated it. The acid from the battery damaged the terminal cable, so now I'm told I have to pay over $200.00 for the terminal, battery, labor, 3yr warranty. My warranty had expired over 2months ago. All the damage the leaky battery has caused, must of been leaking for a long while now. I have read all your complaints. Tomorrow I'm suppose to meet with the guys at Ford service center. I will let them know, that I know Ford has a problem with their batteries. There are so many complaints and recalls. I wish I could of known all this before I bought this car. I thank you for sharing your thoughts. I may share my complaints with a radio station. Someone who will listen.
I have a 2008 ford fusion I purchased when it had 3 miles on it. Im having the same problem. The positive battery cable is corroded and is almost broken in half now. Its not an easy fix because of all the wires that run into that cable. Whoever thought of this design was a real genius
I live in Texas. This has happened to me on my 2011 Ford Fusion. My battery was corroded at 15, 000 miles and they cleaned it up. My battery was under warranty but Ford is specific on what they will do and wont do. Since my battery tested positive Ford would not replace the battery. Then at 34, 000 miles I got an oil change. The dealership is saying they told me I needed to get my battery cleaned again but they didn't. So now at 36, 959 my car stops working. My husband looked under the hood and told me to come see this so I did. It was a grapefruit size corrosion o my battery. I called the dealership and they said we told you that you needed to clean you battery. I agued and said no you didn't. I spoke the manager then to the GM. Out of $382.00 Ford was willing to pay $150 and I would be stuck with $230. I said no my battery was under warranty and they refused to change it because Ford wouldn't let them. I think it is ###. I do not think I will be buying a Ford anytime soon. I told them since they think my car was good enough to drive out of the lot with 3 months ago with corrosion on the battery they could have this car back and I will trade it in. I will never go through Auto Nation again for car repairs or oil changes. My husband now got the positive cable for $128 and the dealership wanted to charge me $182. Also Ford will only pay $150 if I buy the part there and did the work there. I said no my husband can do it but FORD won't pay their portion that way. Ridiculous.
2010 Fusion. Same problem. Battery harness replaced due to corrosion. Battery had just been replaced 2 years earlier . 38000.00 miles on car. Had to fight to get Ford to do anything. Harness should be covered under warranty. Costs were high. Ford should do a recall on this item it appears
Just had the same problem on my 2012 Ford Fusion. Corrosion on the positive battery cable and the car was at 38000 miles. $575 for parts and labor, the equivalent of two car payments and I've only had it 2 years. The car is 25 months old, parked in a garage (sheltered by the elements) each night. There is no reason this should be happening - and as often as it does. Ford should recall and fix the problem. I plan to fight this with Ford - and will also let them know that after a lifetime of owning Ford cars (and only Ford cars), I do not plan to purchase another one if this problem is not fixed and resolved.
My 2012 fusion has also experianced corrosion to the possitive terminal all these times it has been in (last time was only a month ago) never once was anything said to me concerning the issue at hand---we all know they try to sell you any serive than they can durimg any service---but nothing was ever said. It had 36, 500 when the issue arose. Will they cover a thing...not a chance the battery is just fine but the terminal was so corroded that all but the top of it corroded clean off by the time i realized what the issue was. A new possitive terminal will be $200. If i let them do the work, another $75. My first and last ford of any type
I have a 2007 ford fusion.. I have to start it every day or the battery dies out and it is put on a charger to start again, ... I have to let it run at least 15 minutes every day... if I even skip a day or 2 its dead... have problem with corrosion on one of the terminals... and it is constantly being cleaned off... whats up I see all kinds of complaints with these types of cars...
I have a 2008 Fusion that I bought new and it has 64000miles on it. This is the second time I have had to replace the battery because of a corroded battery terminal issue! First one was 6/2011 second one was 9/2015! I am ticked! This is obviously a very common issue. My car gets its regular oil changes and maintenance at the Ford dealership.
We bought a new 20012 Ford Fusion SEL, with a maintenance agreement for 60, 000 miles and I just noticed, at 50, 000 miles, the negative terminal of the battery is very corroded and has wicked down to the cable...I sprayed battery cleaner on it after I took it off, , used a flat blade screwdriver to chip away at the buildup on the post and connector, put a battery pad under the post, and used a battery grease to lube both the post and connector.
It is interesting that all the cars I have ever owned up to this one never had the even the slighted issues of corrosion that this one has . I suspect the connector material is not of the same quality nor purity of days gone by when autos were made in the USA.. The reason I say this is the material of the connector looks thinner and not the same color as connectors in the past and even when I put 30 minutes into trying to get ALL the buildup off, I still could not scrape it to the bare metal.. it is sad commentary on some American products these days.
Funny I should come across this article on the Ford Fusion, My Ford edge, just stopped on me yesterday and the service department at Ford said that my positive cable wire is bad and wanted to charge me $600.00 for parts and labor. It seems to me that the positive battery cables that they are using are bad and the company doesn't want to have a recall. This sounds very suspicious to me. Everytime I have had is serviced they said it looked okay. Just recently they wanted to do some kind of battery flush for the corrosion, but the cost was about $100.00. I couldn't see paying that much. I am going to write to the company as well regarding the faulty cable. If they get enough complaints in maybe we can get a recall and refund. Ha! I know I am dreaming about the refund. It is worth a try. Thanks to all who has posted this issue.
2008 Ford Fusion/SEL 201, 000 miles, 2.3L 4-cylinder, 32MPG highway, great car. Last week [protected]) would not start. Jumped started fine, no battery/charging light appeared on dash. Same day we received new tires from Tire Rack, so took to Wal-Mart for tire install, oil change & battery check. They tested battery, printout stated "BATTERY TEST RESULTS-REPLACE BATTERY" Voltage 12.88V, Measured 380 CCA, Rated 590 CCA, Temperature 84°. It was a DIEHARD battery. Car started perfectly until yesterday [protected]) then the same issue. Clicking noise and not starting. Jump started again, no battery light on dash/same as before. So pulled on positive cable towards front of car while my Wife turned the key, and the car started just fine. Conclusion, loose connector. So took a 3/8" open end wrench and a Phillips screwdriver to tighten the connector. But, no matter how tight I tightened it, it would still move about a 1/2" back and forth. So I l removed the screw ands nut completely, removed the connector from the positive battery post. That is when some (not much) corrosion in the bottom half of the connector. Scrapped most out with a small blade screwdriver, then wire brushed it. Followed that up with some old school Coke a Cola poured from a can. Looked very cleaned out. Put connector back on, installed screw and nut, but put four small stainless washers on the screw. Two at the head end, two at the nut end, so to be able to tighten better. Really got it good and tight, but the thin connector metal tried to bend up on the top. So slightly loosened, tamped that metal on top of post with the handle of the screwdriver. Retightened very carefully as much as possible. Started car. Shut off, started again. Started and shut off one more time. All was good. One hour later, car would not crank. Same clicking sound as before. Opened hood, pulled on positive cable again towards front of car, had the Wife turn the key, and it started. Went to Wal-Mart to have them test the new battery. Told them it was doing the same thing, not starting. So they tested the new battery, and this time the printout stated "BATTERY TEST RESULTS-CHARGE REQUIRED" Voltage 12.34V, Measured 304CCA, Rated 590CCA, Temperature 107°. So now I'm wondering (based on earlier test on battery results) if Wal-Mart sold us a battery when the real problem was the corroded/loose battery connector lead? Wal-Mart employees was shown how the car would not start unless the cable was pulled forward. They do not carry a replacement connector, suggested a FORD dealer. Went to FORD, parts counter guy said they only sell the connector with the cable/cables? attached as a unit. But he said maybe a shim could be placed between the connector and the battery terminal to help make contact by making the connection tighter. Today, I am going to place a piece of copper wire between the connector and the battery terminal to see if it will allow better contact to be made and allow the car to start. FORD has always had great products for our family, but as with all manufacturers, they are always looking to reduce costs and weight to increase the bottom line on profits and increase MPG with less overall vehicle weight. This connector was more than likely made by a third party supplier? In the end FORD approved its usage, but it is definitely not the same quality of battery connectors made in the past. But it has lasted 8 years, and nothing lasts forever. So will we buy another FORD, most definitely! Because I'm sure other Auto Manufacturers do the same kind of stuff to make more profit and increase MPG by weight reduction. At least on the FORD, I know its only a connector to the battery. Another Manufacturer's reduction effort may be a bolt or bearing inside the engine... then what?😡$$$$$$! Will have to provide an update after I attempt to repair today and reveal the results. It would be nice if FORD (or parts supplier) would offer a repair or adapter kit to connect inline/conjunction with the existing connector to complete a more secure connection to the battery terminal. Like a male battery post (slightly larger diameter than what's on a battery) with another positive cable (say 3" or 4" long) with a heavy duty (old school type) connector that can be connected to the battery terminal. Just a thought. Thank you for reading.